On a clear evening, you're in for the starriest night of your life. Look for shells and sea snails, get hypnotized by the powerful Atlantic waves, or pitch a tent right on the sand. Natural dunes sling low over wide-open, empty, and amazingly pristine beaches. Sand paths wind past grassy salt marshes, wispy evergreen shrubs, and sky-blue inlets. Beyond the village, miles of pure coastal wilderness await.
Visitors dock in Portsmouth village, a once-thriving seafaring port dating to the 1700s, now a ghost town with a cluster of historic buildings - the post office-slash-general store and a one-room schoolhouse - to check out as you please. The Outer Banks is a major vacation destination, yet one of its islands is so secluded, even many North Carolinians have never heard of it: Portsmouth, only accessible by ferry or private boat.
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